This fall sees the introduction of Jorge Luis Pabón as Head Chef of Ella Funt, the Neo-Bistro housed in the former location of Club82, one of New York’s oldest cabarets, frequented by the likes of Salvador Dali and named after the Club’s most sought after performer, the iconic “Ella Funt”.
Right straight away we will make a slight detour into and about the naming of Ella Funt because it is hilarious and fits better here than at the end:
Ella was the stage name of a performing drag queen at the 82 Club, which is now dubbed Ella’s Cellar. Ella was a fabulous performer, a curvy figure and magnetic character, born for the stage. Salvador Dali, who was notoriously infatuated with drag queens and very un-notoriously an artist at the time, was a regular at the venue. He fell madly in love with this wonderful mystical character Ella. He would confess his love for Ella over and over again, draw sketches and write love letters to Ella on serviettes while he watched her entertain the audience. He would give these little works of art to her. Ella had no interest in Dali, she saw him as a bum who hung around like a bad smell. Ella would discard these gifts, even use them to blow her nose as part of her act and then throw it back at him humiliating Dali in front of the whole room. Heartbroken and embarrassed, Dali became bitter from the rejection but he did not stop returning to the venue to watch her. He would do even bigger drawings of Ella in a rage, now straight on the table cloths. He would draw Ella with an elephant trunk and write Ella Funt underneath. This was Dali’s attempt at revenge. The owners would throw Dali out along with the tablecloth he had vandalized. Ella used the name Ella Funt from that point on, as a finger up at Dali and his pathetic attempt to offend her. Dali was left out in the cold, abandoned by his love interest and unwelcome from his favorite establishment. The owners even put a sign up with his head shot saying do not let this man inside. Dali was out on his own. Ella and the owners made a mockery of him. Of course Dli eventually had the last laugh. If only they hadn’t thrown those napkins and tablecloths away, neither Ella or the owners would have ever had to work again.
After the above detour we align with our initial story-course … today the venue, which first opened under the guise of Ella Funt in summer 2023, is a restaurant which becomes a wine and cocktail bar after service. Ella Funt remains a venue committed to seeking out and celebrating artists, acting as an ever-evolving gallery showcasing pieces by both up and coming and established creatives, set against the backdrop of the Annabel Karim Kassar designed space. Artistry extends beyond the dining room as Pabón draws inspiration from the artwork adorning the restaurant’s walls to craft dishes that reflect and respond to each new piece.
Pabón, who was most recently Executive Chef of Estela, brings a wealth of experience and an unparalleled résumé to Ella Funt, including time spent in the kitchens of The French Laundry and El Celler de can Roca. Pabón’s appointment marks the start of Ella Funt 2.0, as the restaurant matures into its second year and refines their offering, with a greater emphasis on produce, seasonality and inventiveness, moving beyond a French-rooted menu and exploring New American influences and flavors. As Pabón puts it, his cooking is ‘rooted in time and place’. Dishes from Pabón’s inaugural menu include: Crudites with zucchini marmalade, Oysters with spiced mignonette, Cured tuna with tomatoes and shiso, Scallop with melon and yuzu kosho, Duck raviolo with foie gras and Belper Knolle, Swordfish with mushrooms, and vin jaune and Steak with eggplant, potato, and lemon.
Since launch, Ella Funt has become a much-loved destination for drinking and dining alike, and they will continue to welcome guests for cocktails, late night rendezvous and vibrant gatherings into the evening. The wine program has been developed to complement Pabón’s dishes, while also offering a selection that invites guests to linger in the bar. The newly diversified list celebrates bottles from the world over, from Morocco to Australia, with layovers in Argentina, Europe and NY State, with an emphasis on wines by the glass and carafe. Perfectly paired with dessert or cheese, sweet wines and port will be served, allowing guests to follow Pabón’s menu start to finish with a glass of something great.
Lounes Mazouz, Owner and Founder of Ella Funt, says: ‘Ella is evolving, growing older and wiser as it embraces a new direction. With Jorge now at the helm, a key aspect of our transformation is our commitment to becoming a true farm-to-table restaurant, ensuring that the freshest, locally-sourced ingredients are at the heart of every dish. Despite these changes, we remain dedicated to being a welcoming option for our neighbors and community. While our cuisine evolves, Ella Funt will continue to be the beloved bar that people know and enjoy. We’re not just a dinner destination but a true gathering spot where guests can unwind, connect, and savor great food and drink’
Ella Funt is open Tuesday-Saturday from 5.30pm until 1am. Reservations are available now.
Ella Funt’s revival of the Club82 – a storied venue dedicated to live performance and late night shows – is slated to open in spring 2025, housed in the subterranean space beneath the restaurant. Further details to be announced.
I love how thorough you were in covering this subject.
Yaay!